We (ok I), wanted to follow the 'Sacred Way' north up the coast to Ephesus.
'The Sacred Way' is the original pilgrimmage route that connected :
The Temple of Artemis in Ephesus to her brother's temple in Didyma, The Temple of Apollo.
Instead, we would do it backwards, and in a car! Dropping in on all the sacred sites nearby, starting with Herakleia, Didim, Milet, Priene and finally Ephesus.
'The Sacred Way' is the original pilgrimmage route that connected :
The Temple of Artemis in Ephesus to her brother's temple in Didyma, The Temple of Apollo.
Instead, we would do it backwards, and in a car! Dropping in on all the sacred sites nearby, starting with Herakleia, Didim, Milet, Priene and finally Ephesus.
On a hilarious note, we rented a car from the unfortunately named company Bumerang (here is a link if you do not believe me)! Loved it! Here is their logo! ha ha!
Then off we went, driving north to Herakleia, to see the famous Temple of Endymion - supposedly built where his final resting place is. It is now known as Kapiciri near Lake Bafa.
As soon as we got out in the tiny town near the lake our car was immediately surrounded - by 6 old Turkish women. They demanded to know where we were going, appointed themselves our official guides. Inevitably we were marched through vineyards and ancient houses to see various famous rocks (Greg’s favourite ‘Ekmek rock’ - bread shaped rock), the thousand year old olive tree and the ruins of the old aqueducts. The town of Herakleia used to be large port city, but when the waterways silted up cutting off the ocean access, the port became obselete and the people moved away.
As soon as we got out in the tiny town near the lake our car was immediately surrounded - by 6 old Turkish women. They demanded to know where we were going, appointed themselves our official guides. Inevitably we were marched through vineyards and ancient houses to see various famous rocks (Greg’s favourite ‘Ekmek rock’ - bread shaped rock), the thousand year old olive tree and the ruins of the old aqueducts. The town of Herakleia used to be large port city, but when the waterways silted up cutting off the ocean access, the port became obselete and the people moved away.
Then as we came to a large outcropping away from anywhere, the old ladies began pushing cloth and trinkets in our hands and demanding sales. Really demanding, we relented and purchased a large tablecloth, but this created issues as the others began demanding money for guiding, photos etc. we paid a small fee for their “guidance” and refused to pay it 6 times over to each of them!!
Greg joked we would find ekmesh (donkey) graffitied on our car later.
Greg joked we would find ekmesh (donkey) graffitied on our car later.
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We visited Athena's temple (still partly standing), an old ottoman castle and finally The Temple of Endymion. The mountain where the myth came from Mt Latmos was behind us.
Endymion's Myth
This is the origins of the famous myth of Endymion and, it goes like this.
Once a shepherd boy, Endymion, fell asleep guarding his sheep. He slept until the Selene Goddess of the Moon drew her chariot across the sky and spied him asleep and beautiful.
She fell in love immediately (always bad for mortals). Each night she’d visit him to watch him sleep, and finally she offered to grant him anything he wanted. Endymion, being rather vain and young wished for eternal youth & beauty. Selene granted his wish, but for him to stay young and beautiful he would have to sleep forever.
Where he slept they built a temple so the Goddess could visit him nightly, this is the temple we went to see, now in ruins but who knows perhaps Endymion still slumber a there today.
Once a shepherd boy, Endymion, fell asleep guarding his sheep. He slept until the Selene Goddess of the Moon drew her chariot across the sky and spied him asleep and beautiful.
She fell in love immediately (always bad for mortals). Each night she’d visit him to watch him sleep, and finally she offered to grant him anything he wanted. Endymion, being rather vain and young wished for eternal youth & beauty. Selene granted his wish, but for him to stay young and beautiful he would have to sleep forever.
Where he slept they built a temple so the Goddess could visit him nightly, this is the temple we went to see, now in ruins but who knows perhaps Endymion still slumber a there today.
A recreation of Endymion asleep in his ancient temple - by Jade
 Famed Mt Latmos in Greek Mythology |  Our beautiful lunch stop on the shores of the lake |
Didymos / Didim
Help! I got stuck After lunch we drove to Didymos - now Didim. Home of the famed Temple of Apollo, the famous oracle of the ancient world - second only to Delphi in Greece.
Walking around the unbelievably large columns and ruins we saw old graffiti of people who’d donated money to the temple, advertising shopfronts and others we couldn’t read.
In the spirit of the ancient structure we walked the perimetre and then through the dark temple passageway which signified coming out of the dark (ignorance) and into the light and wisdom of the oracle. Whilst the oracle was long gone I asked a question of the stones and received an answer in exchange….perhaps the ghost of the oracle lives on?
Walking around the unbelievably large columns and ruins we saw old graffiti of people who’d donated money to the temple, advertising shopfronts and others we couldn’t read.
In the spirit of the ancient structure we walked the perimetre and then through the dark temple passageway which signified coming out of the dark (ignorance) and into the light and wisdom of the oracle. Whilst the oracle was long gone I asked a question of the stones and received an answer in exchange….perhaps the ghost of the oracle lives on?
That night we found ourselves in a wonderful apartment in Didm overlooking the water with a pool….but clusters of older, extremely large, overweight english tourists kind of ruined the view. They were all nut brown and took up every creaking sun bed with booze, and expanses of skin showing…... It was awful. Just don't look - but it was hard!!
a strategically caught shot of our balcony dinner!
Miletus
Once a city of intellectuals, men of science who tried to explain natural phenomena without superstition. Now called Milet - it is a tiny stop where no buses go. We saw a huge cleared site with ruins of an enormous amphitheatre and structures beyond that were sinking into marshlands.
Miletus used to be a bustling port town, with some of the ancient world’s foremost thinkers, but since the river silted up many centuries ago, it became abandoned.
We visited the second smaller temple of Apollo, part of the long pilgrimmage to Didim’s oracle. Some the worlds great thinkers lived and studied here as we learnt in the tiny museum. Really quite modern thinking - going beyond superstition or the gods to explain weather patterns.
Miletus used to be a bustling port town, with some of the ancient world’s foremost thinkers, but since the river silted up many centuries ago, it became abandoned.
We visited the second smaller temple of Apollo, part of the long pilgrimmage to Didim’s oracle. Some the worlds great thinkers lived and studied here as we learnt in the tiny museum. Really quite modern thinking - going beyond superstition or the gods to explain weather patterns.
Priene: An aristocratic society
We parked halfway up a mountain and walked up to the ancient town of Priene. Beautifully preserved foundations, and a great temple of Apollo. Overlooking a mountainside and old harbour - now a farming plane.
This city was the home to the wealthiest citizens the archeologists are now finding. They had luxurious indoor toilets (because of the amount of water you need to pump into your house!), huge private houses, and the city lies on a grid system, devised by a famous Greek architect - and now copied around the world.
Not much is left but flowers and a great view but such an interesting legacy to the world…..
This city was the home to the wealthiest citizens the archeologists are now finding. They had luxurious indoor toilets (because of the amount of water you need to pump into your house!), huge private houses, and the city lies on a grid system, devised by a famous Greek architect - and now copied around the world.
Not much is left but flowers and a great view but such an interesting legacy to the world…..
We stopped for lunch at one of the AWESOME restaurants along the highway. Kalcyon has the stop and eat place down pat! From waving you into a park right out front, hustling you to your table, and plonking down soft doughy pita and olives, whilst you decide if you want beef, chicken or pork shish, with salad and wood fired bread with tasty butter. All the time washing your car as you eat!
Amazing food!While we ate their boys washed our car, whole meal was only 40 lira and and a few for car wash tip.
Amazing food!While we ate their boys washed our car, whole meal was only 40 lira and and a few for car wash tip.
 Nom nom nom |  Fresh running Ayran! |  Is that a scottish turkish man?! |
Onwards to Selcuk the neighbouring town to Ephesus. Where we settled into Jimmys place, a great eclectic guesthouse run by the multilingual, effervescent host, Jimmy, who loves aussies and a good drink. Dinner and a swim!
Next up we see the ancient city of Ephesus - with toilet clubs, posing cats, and real fake watches!
Stay tuned!!
Jade & Greg x
Next up we see the ancient city of Ephesus - with toilet clubs, posing cats, and real fake watches!
Stay tuned!!
Jade & Greg x
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